About the old English sheepdog

Historical origins of the Old English Sheepdog are obscure but it is thought to be a combination of the Scottish Bearded Collie and the South Russian Owtchar.


The Old English Sheepdog breed has been around since at least the 1800's and achieved official breed status in 1873 with the founding of The Kennel Club in England.


The first Old English Sheepdog came to North America around 1885 and achieved official breed status with the American Kennel Club in 1888.


In the early 1900's, the Old English Sheepdog made its way into the hearts of people across most of Europe.


The OES, also known as the Bobtail, had their tail 'docked' or 'bobbed' to signify that they were working dogs and therefore were exempt from taxes. Today the tail continues to be docked to preserve the tradition of the breed.




Take your dog for a long walk around your neighborhood and around your yard.  This lets your new dog know where he is and he won’t be uncomfortable inside “the walls”.


IF YOU HAVE OTHER DOGS .... Introduce your animals to each other outside your home.  Dogs are territorial and may be aggressively defensive.  Meeting outside their territory lets them become acquainted in a neutral area.  Take them all for a walk together before going inside.


FIRST TIME INSIDE THE HOUSE .... Show your dog around the house under control of a leash.  Then let the dog off the leash to explore the house on his or her own.


TALK TO YOUR DOG .... Let your dog get to know you by talking to him or her in full sentences in a friendly voice.  Say your dog’s name often.


FEEDING …. Large breeds need to eat twice a day.  A very small meal in the morning and the larger meal in the evening.  Always take the dog for a walk immediately after they eat.  They need to go “potty” after each meal.  That’s just the way a dog’s digestive system works.


ACCIDENT IN THE HOUSE .... The dog may have an “accident” in the first day or two because he doesn’t yet know the allowable place to go.  Take the dog outside and stay with him until he goes.  Then praise him.


REGULAR SCHEDULE …. Your new family member doesn’t like surprises.  Eating time, eating area, sleeping and going outside time.  Establish a reasonable schedule and stick to it.


TETHER AT NIGHT ….  (Optional) If your new family member is restless at bedtime, use a short tether next to your bed.  Your dog wants to be where you are.  If you use a tether for the first two or three days, the dog will not be tempted to have an “accident” and will become accustomed to where he or she should be.


MOST OF ALL – LOVE YOUR DOG ….  Everything is new and your new family member is scared.  If you build a trust and friendship, your dog will do anything for you.  Unlike popular belief, your dog does not think of himself as a person – he thinks of you as another dog.



  •     TXOESR pays for all vetting
  •     TXOESR does NOT support the use of any shock collar or prong collar of ANY kind
  •     Dogs are NEVER left outside while no one is home
  •     Dogs are NEVER left unattended around a swimming pool
  •     Dogs are never sent away to a board and train facility
  •     Foster families will have the first option to adopt their foster dog
  •     TXOESR will handle all contracts and money transactions
  •     Foster families do not have the authority to arrange for a dog to be left at a potential owners home
  •     Foster families do not have the authority to adopt out a dog to a potential owner
  •     TXOESR will make all final adoption decisions
  •     Spaying & Neutering


All adult dogs will be spayed or neutered once settled in the foster home. No puppies are to be spayed or neutered until they are at least one year old (male) or when the female has completed her second cycle. It is much healthier for the dog to be altered once they have matured. Owners will sign an agreement to our terms.






  •     Unbaked bread
  •     Dough/Alcohol
  •     Grapes & Raisins
  •     Xylitol/Sugar-Free
  •     Gum/Candy
  •     Onions & Garlic
  •     Human Medications
  •     Compost
  •     Fatty Table Scraps
  •     Macadamia Nuts
  •     Household Cleaners
  •     Chocolate



 Maintenance of Your
Old English sheepdog



Our appreciation to NEOESR for the below information.

 Grooming your OES

  • General Comments

    Dogs should be taught from an early age to lay down whilst being groomed, both for their own comfort and that of the groomer.  In preference a grooming table should be used, although any table top with a non-slip surface or cover would suffice. Alternatively, if this is neither practical nor convenient the dog should be taught to lay on a blanket on the floor whilst being groomed. Grooming sessions are better if they are shorter and perhaps more frequent rather than too prolonged, in order to prevent frustrations and rising tempers if a lot of grooming is required.

  • Pet Grooming

    Many people who own Old English Sheepdogs as pets, often end up clipping them off because they are unable to maintain the level of grooming required. Clipping is not necessary under these circumstances and hopefully the following tips will help to maintain an apparent fully coated dog. Basically by using a comb to strip the undercoat from the dog, the coat can be maintained at full length or part length if trimmed periodically rather than stripped. For this purpose I personally find a smaller sized medium toothed comb with a handle being the best for the job. The technique is quite simple, and as explained in the general comments above, it is more convenient if the dog is laying down preferably on a grooming table or alternatively on a blanket on the floor.

    Diagram 1

    Referring to 'Diagram 1', starting with the outside edge of the rear leg, lift the coat to expose the lower 1-2 inches of coat just above the pads, now begin to gently comb through the hairs to ensure that this section of coat is free of tangles. If the coat is heavily knotted then this should be eased before combing by gently using both thumbs and forefingers to tease the knot apart so that the comb will not pull too heavily against the knotted coat (remember how you feel when you get a small tangle in your own hair and try to comb it). From this starting point, gradually work your way up the outside edge of this leg and around the rear quarter of that side. Then following the same process, recommence from the inside edge of the other rear leg, gently lifting or moving forwards/backwards the other rear leg to enable you to comb the coat up to the underside of the dogs body.




    Having worked so far with the legs you should then commence with the main body of the dog starting from just in front of the rear leg and working in convenient strips upwards and along the body to the front legs and shawl. By this point if you have not dealt with the underside of the dog between the front and rear legs then it should be done at this stage.


    Next you will need to start to work on the outside edge of the front leg, remembering that most dogs in this breed have a great deal of sensitivity along their front legs, particularly up the front edge - so take extra care and be gentle. In the same way as you worked up the back legs, start again with the front working from the bottom up, and then repeat on the inner edge of the other front leg. Care should be taken to ensure that the chest area between the front legs is also gently dealt with to clear any knots from this area which tends to be prone to severe knotting.


    From here you should work upwards through the shoulders and chest to the neck, until only the head remains on this side.


    Sometimes for personal convenience at this point, I start the other side of the body leaving the head to be dealt with completely at the end. However, for the purpose of these notes I will deal with the side of the head at this stage.


    The head itself is not particularly easy to comb and also includes many sensitive areas. It is probably easier to start from the neck and chest working from the lowest point upwards towards the mouth and ear. Leaving the ear flap for now, continue to work upwards around the head to the top gently working around the side and top of the nose and then carefully around the eyes, being particularly gentle at this point. Now for the ear flap, starting at the top of the ear on one edge, very carefully work your way around the edges of the ear flap, you must be very gentle at this point and tease out as much as possible before using the comb, as bleeding can easily occur from these areas if you are too heavy handed. You can then work upwards across the outside edge of the ear flap, then turning it over to carefully deal with the inner edges. Whilst the ear flap is turned over, it is a useful opportunity to check the ear making sure that it is clean, and that any soft brown hairs are gently plucked from the ear.


    The dog should now be turned over and the whole process repeated for the other side.


    By now the whole body of the dog has been groomed and some final finishing points can be carried out. The hair between the pads should either be combed carefully and trimmed flush with the pads, or carefully clipped away altogether, depending upon personal preference. The genital areas of the dog/bitch should also be trimmed carefully around the edges to reduce the opportunities for knotting and infection. The hair around the anus should be trimmed away back to the skin for approximately one inch all around it. Finally, the opportunity should be taken to check that the claws are not in need of cutting, if they do, then in preference use guillotine type nail cutters to trim them back, cutting small amounts regularly and not cutting back to the 'quick'.


    Having taken the trouble to clear the dogs coat in this way, weekly brushing with a stiff brush will help to maintain the appearance between these major grooming sessions. On average if you comb the coat once a month, with a good brush each week, you will probably find that it will be alright. However, you should remember that all dogs are different and you will need to learn and respond to what is right for your dog.


  • Show Grooming

    Again taking note of the earlier general comments, lay the dog down. The tools for grooming and maintaining a 'show' coat are somewhat different. I personally find that a 'Mason & Pearson' type of 'bristle & nylon' brush is the main item, supplemented with combs of fine, medium and coarse teeth and additionally a good pair of scissors.


    For the purpose of grooming a dog to be presented in the show ring, I personally believe they should be totally free of knots. To achieve this depth of grooming without excessive and unacceptable loss of either undercoat or length of top coat, considerable care and time must be taken.


    Diagram 2

    This time referring to 'Diagram 2', starting from a point just above the anus, begin to separate the coat in to small sections, brushing carefully from the roots away from the dog. This method allows each section to be brushed over previously brushed coat thereby ensuring that all knots are found and brushed during the grooming session. From this starting point, work gradually around the rear quarter and down the outside edge of the rear leg, and repeating for the inside edge of the other rear leg although at the top you will not be able to brush the coat 'away', therefore you should take extra care to ensure that all of the coat in this area has been brushed. Then working in sections along the side of the body, starting at the top of the back and working down to the underside, this should be repeated until the neck, shoulders and chest have been included. The front legs should then be groomed starting from the top outside edge and working downwards to the bottom, then repeating for the inner edge of the other front leg. The same difficulty will be found between the front legs as the back in as much as the coat cannot be brushed 'away' and should be carefully brushed in this potentially knotty area.


    Now the side of the head can be groomed, starting from the top point just above the neck and working down and around the ear flap to include the nose and lower jaw. Finally the ear flap can be dealt with by continuing the process of brushing 'away', starting at the top of the ear flap and working down to the tip, and then turning over to brush around the inner edges. At this point the ear should be checked for cleanliness and any soft brown hairs plucked out.


    The dog should now be turned over and the whole process repeated for the other side.


    Once the main grooming has been completed, as with 'pet dogs', the hair between the pads should be attended to, the claws checked and the hair trimmed around the genital and anal areas.


    After the main grooming has been carried out, a certain amount of preparation can be carried out that will enhance the presentation in the ring. Many people will debate the use of scissors or whether the ends of the coat should be 'trimmed' by breaking the coat between thumbs and forefingers. However, I personally find scissors helpful and acceptable, but do not like to see a 'scissored' finish to a presented dog. Bearing in mind the desired 'shape' that is dealt with in the next section, it is often helpful to lightly trim and shape the ears and head as well as around the back and feet, this should not be excessive or appear scissored, and will take years of practice to achieve but often the breeder or fellow exhibitors will help you if you ask.


    Apart from shaping/trimming, the shoulders and neck should be stripped out by using a coarse toothed comb to ease out some of the undercoat, leaving the shoulders slim rather than thick with dense coat. The fine toothed comb should be used very carefully so as not to break the coat or remove too much undercoat, working around the mouth and chin, around the edge of the ears and around the feet. Finally, using either the medium or coarse toothed comb, the undercoat should be eased by carefully combing below the anus to the top of the rear legs to enable the coat in this area to lay a little flatter to the body.



  • Ring Presentation

    This particular section of these notes will enter in to areas of controversy and debate. Currently there is tremendous effort to achieve a high level of finish to the ring presentation of Old English Sheepdogs. However, it should be remembered that in previous years this was not the case, and many people hold differing views regarding the style of presentation, and it is up to each person to develop their own style and to suit the particular judge under whom they are showing. Personally, I feel very strongly that it is up to the judge to examine the dog for its qualities and not necessarily its presentation, only perhaps using this factor in the unlikely situation that they can not differentiate between the qualities of two dogs. The presentation aspect to me reflects the fact that dog shows are also spectator/public events, and for that purpose are in effect almost beauty competitions. There may be many people who disagree with these particular views, but they are personal and reflect my own views and beliefs.


    Overall in presenting the dog for the show ring, the intent is to create a pear shape appearance to the body and emphasize the size of the head, retaining slim shoulders and good neck with the front legs fluffed out, whilst the rear legs, hocks and feet are also groomed to advantage.

    Diagram 3

    Referring to 'Diagrams 3 & 4', with the dog stood, commence by shaping the rear body of the dog, brushing the coat upwards and outwards to increase the base of the pear shape, this extending down the rear legs to just above the hocks. The shoulders, chest and neck should be brushed as close as possible to the body perhaps using a fine water spray to stop the coat 'flying'. The front legs should be brushed upwards and outwards , whilst the hocks should be groomed to emphasize their shape and size as indicated in diagrams 3/4. Finally the head, ears and muzzle should also be brushed upwards and outwards to emphasize the overall size of the head. Clearly notes are no substitute for actual practice and it may take a considerable time before you are satisfied with your efforts.


    Diagram 4Having described the basic idea, this can be supplemented, if desired, by an element of 'back-brushing'. This technique is no substitute for quality of coat, but I feel that it does allow for an enhancement of the final finish in relation to the appearance of the dog perhaps in the 'beauty competition' element, and a judge should never be deceived by an exhibitors clever brushwork. By using light back-brushing around the rear quarters of the dog along with its head, a more professional finish can be achieved. I am sure that many of us have stood at the ring-side before and admired dogs in the ring, occasionally being deceived by good presentation rather than a quality dog. I am sure that this is often the reason why we see a well presented dog which does not win and who is beaten by one who is not so well presented, a totally correct decision.


    It should also be noted that there are some judges who do not allow brushes to be used within the ring, and this in itself is a statement that they will not be deceived by presentation and care more about the quality of the dog itself. Often in these situations back-brushing is inappropriate, but your hands can be used to good effect, again achieving the basic desired shape as described earlier in this section.


    There are many techniques that can be used in ring presentation, and only a few examples have been indicated here. You should be prepared to look and listen in order to learn and extend your knowledge, you will never know it all, so always be prepared to learn more, consider other methods, and last but not least respect other peoples views and opinions - it takes all sorts and styles in showing.

  • Grooming Preparations

    In giving a couple of tips here, you should always be familiar with the Kennel Club Rules on this issue, which basically do not allow for any preparation to be used which will change either the color, texture or body of a dogs coat.


    A fine spray of water to aid their preparation for the show ring is all that is currently allowed by the Kennel Club. Trade stands and pet shops are full of products to tempt you - just beware of the K.C. rules.


    In concluding these notes, I hope that they will be of help to you, and would encourage you to copy them and pass them on to others who may benefit from them. As I have previously said, I do not consider myself to be an expert, just rather fortunate to have had the opportunity to learn from fellow exhibitors, and I am indebted to them for their tuition, help and support over the last 15 years.


    Bob Martin

    March 1992 (updated April 1996)


Crate Training

There are many wonderful reasons to buy a crate for your new dog.


At the top of the list are his security and your peace of mind.


  • A crate is your dog's little den.  Do you remember building a playhouse out of a huge box when you were a kid?  You had fun in that little enclosure.  You felt safe.  The crate is your dog's playhouse.
  • Choose a size of crate that you'll be able to use for your dog when he is a fully grown adult.  The full grown dog must be able to stand, sit, turn around and lie down comfortably.  Hopefully your dog has come from a breeder or foster home who crate trained it or started crate training it.  In that case, this dog already considers a crate its home.


Crate training a dog is important for a number of reasons.


  • It will keep him out of trouble and makes him feel more secure about being left alone
  • If you have visitors who are afraid of dogs or service people working in the house, the crate will keep your dog from getting underfoot.
  •  A crated dog cannot destroy your home. He cannot chew on an electrical cord and electrocute himself. He cannot find that bug poison you sprinkled under the bathroom sink and forgot about. He cannot got into the cleaning chemicals under your sink when you are not watching.
  • A dog's natural instinct is to chew, especially when he is teething. Just like a baby he will put anything into his mouth. Anything within the dog's potential range is a target. You wouldn't let a toddler run unsupervised in your home and help himself to anything. You shouldn't do it with a dog, either.
  • A crate is also where he learns to control his bladder and piddle outside. Dogs will usually make a great effort not to soil their den. If you take your dog out often, and praise him highly for doing his business outside, with the crate's help, he will housebreak sooner, with fewer accidents.
  • A crate is also a good way to keep your relationship with your dog positive. After all, if the little guy isn't running through the house, he cannot be doing things he shouldn't do. You come home, he's wagging his rear. You tell him he's great, calmly open the crate door and immediately take him outside.  He relieves himself and you tell him he is wonderful.  Lots of positive reinforcement here.   There is no need for yelling and screaming when you get home to find he has trashed the house.  There is no way he could trash the house, as he was safely confined to this crate.


If your dog has never seen a crate, introduce him to his new home slowly when he needs to take a nap.  After he eats, he will want to relieve himself.  After that, put him in the crate for nap time.


  • When the dog wakes up, he will bark because he needs to go out and doesn't want to soil his bed.  Take him out, let him piddle, play with him for awhile. When he is tired and ready for another nap, put him back in the crate. The crate is like a baby's crib--it is a safe place to sleep, but is not the proper place for bathroom functions.
  • Your dog may start to whine or bark when he is locked in the crate. This is normal. The dog may be trying to tell you he has to go. If you are sure he doesn't need to relieve himself, ignore him.  Some dogs will only fuss for a few minutes, others may bark for a while.
  • To make your dog more comfortable in his crate, put a washable, fluffy towel on the crate floor (don't use newspapers in the crate--this will only confuse the dog about the proper place to relieve himself).  Put in a safe chew toy like a Kong or a Nylabone to keep him occupied.


It is also a great safety measure when traveling with your dog. A crate will also prevent the dog from jumping all over you while you are driving, causing an accident. Keeping an animal crated during travel also offers the dog added security in the event of an automobile accident. If you don't want to crate your dog during travel, pet stores now have safety belts for dogs.


Once you reach your destination, a crate provides your dog with a safe haven in a strange location. It makes you a more welcome guest since your dog won't be running wild through someone else's home or in the motel room. He'll be happier because he has his 'den,' your host will be happier since he'll have no accidents and you'll be happier because you won't have to apologize for puddles and ripped furniture.


The crate is not a place for punishment. It should always be seen by your dog as a wonderful, happy haven.


If you approach the crate as a necessity of dog ownership similar to the leash, collar and water bowl, your dog will accept it readily.  It will become his little home.  You won't have to worry about what he is doing when you aren't watching.  And he is feeling safe while you are gone because he is in his den.






Texas Old English Sheepdog Rescue, Inc.


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TxOESR, Inc. is a group of volunteers who give their time and love to the rescued Sheepdogs who come into our program. We provide vetting and a loving home environment to our foster dogs awaiting adoption.

Copyright 2016 Texas Old English Sheepdog Rescue, Inc.

Texas Old English Sheepdog Rescue, Inc.

We have been saving and improving

OES lives since 2002

 P.O. Box 1347

Argyle, Texas 76226

1 214-448-2888